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Tuning Blog

by John Ellis, U14/16/FIS Coach, Gear
Geek, and SprongoMan.



  Where to start? Here's an
introduction to basic daily tuning

  • 30 Jul 2014 7:25 AM | Deleted user
  • 30 Jul 2014 7:00 AM | Deleted user
    I ran many more experiments this past Winter and I am ready to apply the lessons learned to any and all CMAC racers' equipment.  I will update this blog when I finish prepping Race Skis for the new season. So far, I've prepped 16 pairs...

    Open this link to find more than 35 separate tuning blog entries.

    ADVANCED SERIES:

    START HERE?

    WAX SERIES- LARGE! 

    EASY TUNING SERIES- 

    TOOL SERIES


  • 14 May 2014 6:32 PM | Deleted user

    Recommended Ski Sizes by Age Class

    Note for ALL ages:

    Ski size preferences are very personal, and are only part of the racer’s setup. Therefore, this is ONLY a guide, NOT hard and fast rules- with the exception of the strict FIS equipment rules. Work with your coaches to help you decide on best ski sizes for your racers.

    U-8/10: Skier age 6-9

    The youngest racers need a tuned and waxed front side/all mountain ski/junior race (waist width 65-75mm) in good shape as their primary skis, NOT Twin Tip fat skis. Rockered fat skis discourage carving and are only useful on powder days.

    Skier Height

    Eyebrow

    All-Mountain Ski Length

    4’       (122 cm)

    3’ 9”   (115 cm)

    120 CM

    4’ 2”  (126 cm)

    3’ 11” (120 cm)

    120 CM

    4’ 4”  (132 cm)

    4’ 1”    (125 cm)

    125 CM

    4’6”   (137 cm)

    4’3”     (130 cm)

    130 CM

    4’ 8”  (142 cm)

    4’5”     (135 cm)

    135 CM

    4’10” (147 cm)

    4’7”     (140 cm)

    140 CM

    5’       (152 cm)

    4’9”    (145 cm)

    145 CM

    Kids who are very slight can use 5 cm shorter, stocky and/or super aggressive, 5cm longer.

    U-12: Skier age 10-11

    Skiers in this age group are predominantly Pre Growth Spurt, but are getting much more technically advanced. Slalom and GS skis are recommended, SG skis are nice if you can find them but get very little use. Junior GS skis in a longer length are easier to find and can be used instead. Twin Tips are fun for Powder days. Slalom and GS rule of thumb: Slalom skis: chin to nose height. GS Skis: just past top of head.

    Skier Height

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    Twin Tips

    4’6”

    130 cm

    140 cm

    155 cm (GS ok)

    135 cm

    4’8”

    135 cm

    145 cm

    160 cm (GS ok) 

    140 cm

    4’10”

    140 cm

    155 cm

    165 cm (GS ok)

    145 cm

    5’

    145cm

    160 cm

    170 cm (GS ok)

    150 cm

    5’2”

    150 cm

    165 cm

    175 tweener GS

    155 cm

    5’4”

    155 cm  tweener

    170 cm  tweener

    180-185 SG

    160 cm

    5’6”

    155 cm  tweener

    175 cm  tweener

    185-195 SG

    165 cm

    5’8”

    155 cm  FIS

    177+ cm adult

    190-200 SG

    170 cm

     


  • 14 May 2014 6:30 PM | Deleted user

    Recommended Ski Sizes by Age Class

    Note for ALL ages:

    Ski size preferences are very personal, and are only part of the racer’s setup. Therefore, this is ONLY a guide, NOT hard and fast rules- with the exception of the strict FIS equipment rules. Work with your coaches to help you decide on best ski sizes for your racers.


    U-14/ 1st year U-16: Skier age 12-14. In color for clarity.

    Junior TECH and Speed skis: Maximum weight about 115 lb:  Radius (in parenthesis)

    Skier Height

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH  (SG skis OK)

    4’10

    145

    160

    170-175 (21 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’

    150

    165

    175-180 (23 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’2”

    150

    170

    180-185 (23 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’4”

    150

    175

    185-190 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    Note:  “Tweener” skis are adult construction skis with a junior plate, or visa-versa depending on brand.   Tweener TECH, Junior Speed skis: Maximum weight 130lbs. Radius (in parenthesis)

    Skier Height

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH  (SG skis OK)

    5’2”

    150

    165

    185 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’4”

    150

    170

    190 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’6”

    155

    175

    190 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’8”

    155

    175

    195 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    FIS (adult, legal or once-legal) skis : Weight 125lbs. and above. Radius (in parenthesis)

    Skier Height

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH  (SG skis OK)

    5’6”

    155

    175 (21 M+)

    195 (27 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’8”

    155 W/160 M

    180 (23 M+)

    200 (33 M+)

    Same or longer

    5’10” and above

    155 W/165 M

    183 (23 M+)

    205 (33 M+)

    Same or longer

     

    U-16 2nd year: 

    Bigger Skis to help the racer transition to FIS skis are highly recommended.  Kids are very adaptable at this age, and most are able to adjust to the new equipment quickly. It is best to start in the summer.

    Women

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH

    120lbs or below

    155 tweener

    180+ (23 M+)

    195 (33 M+)

    200 (40 M+)

    125lbs or above

    155 FIS

    183+ (23 M+)

    200 (33 M+)

    205 (40 M+)

    Men

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH

    150 lbs. or below

    155/160

    182 + (27 M+)

    200 (33 M+)

    205 (40 M+)

    160 lbs. or above

    165

    185 + (27 M+)

    205 (33 M+)

    210 (40 M+)

     

    FIS Skiers- FIS 2014-2015 regulations: Smaller sizes= Entry Level FIS. Ski waist width is also critical. Skis made in 2012 or after are required due to changes in profile width.

    Gender

    Slalom

    GS

    SG

    DH

    Women

    155+

    183/188 (30 M+)

    200/205 (40 M+)

    205/210 (50 M+)

    Men

    165+

    190/195 (35 M+)

    205/210 (45 M+)

    213/218 (50 M+)

     

  • 10 May 2014 4:34 PM | Deleted user

    Part 1: Planning and managing ski life/selecting used skis.

    As most Long Time skiers (especially those with a race background) know, Skis Change with time. What I am attempting to address here is how to manage your family quiver to maximize the useful life of your skis. I will talk about:

    Buying and Selling

    Construction types

    Disciplines (Slalom, GS etc.)

    Skier-Age considerations, ages 3-18

    Re-use, resell, repair, or scrap.


    Buying and Selling Skis: Buying used skis is always challenging because it is so hard to know what you are getting. If buying from another family on the team, you at least have some idea of how the ski was used, how it was maintained, and how it performed. In general, the More you Know about a ski’s history, the more the ski is worth. The less you know, the less it is worth and the greater chance of it being a bad deal.


    Construction types: In general, there are 2 types of construction used on high performance and race skis: Cap and Laminate. The third main construction (torsion box) has fallen into disfavor and is mostly used on recreational skis as it is cheaper to make.

    (cap ski)

    Cap skis (most Atomic, Salomon and Elan) wear invisibly because the graphics are molded into the construction. The ski might have lost all of its “pop” and liveliness but still looks like new. The age of the ski and the days of use must be tracked closely or you might give your racer a dog of a ski- without even knowing it. In the picture above, you can see that the colors are as thick as the entire top (and side) layer of the ski.

    (laminate ski)

    Laminate skis (Nearly all other manufacturers) wear externally because the graphics are just painted onto the ski, then covered with a clear coat. Each day of use on the ski shows dramatically. The tops begin to peel off, cut develop on the top edge, etc. Sometimes the skis begin to delaminate after really hard use. It is much easier to tell how old the ski is and how hard it has been used. In the picture above, you can see the graphics are paper-thin.

    Race Discipline: This is critical. The useful life of the ski is totally related to its discipline. In general, skis lose edge hold and “pop” over time, but they gain glide speed and forgiveness. 


    Slalom skis are best (after proper prep) right out of the box. However, some (see next section), lighter skiers MAY appreciate an older Slalom ski.

    Giant Slalom skis typically are best after a couple of days of use, and they can stay really good for quite a while- depending on snow conditions, maintenance and damage.

    Speed skis (SG and DH) get faster and faster with use- until they start to wear out or are damaged beyond repair. Knowing the seller and the history of the ski is important too. Speed skis often bend during a crash. A ski that is bent back MAY be OK, but it is important to know if the ski has suffered any crash damage.


    Skier Age: Very few kids younger than 5 or 6 really “push” a ski. They do not yet have the strength or speed to develop a lot of force.  So the littlest skis tend to last a long time. Perhaps TOO long- because those little, light bindings take a beating and are rarely given any attention. There are many obsolete kids’ skis out there- too old to be useful. About 5-6 years is the maximum useful age of this type of ski. Also- the flatness of the bases and condition of the ski edges IS ULTRA CRITICAL for the youngest skiers. Early proper ski technique fundamentals include balance, edge control and rotary motions. A flat ski responds properly and rewards proper motions with great performance. A concave ski (80%+ of little kids’ skis I have seen) will not respond properly and the skier learns to force the ski to do what they need. This is a bad habit and can take years to unlearn.  A convex ski (or skis that are too short) will wander and hunt. Such a ski can make a young skier (understandably) nervous about going fast. Learning to let a ski run (glide) is another basic skill that a young skier can learn and use their whole life. It is best to start them out right with flat skis and smooth, burr-free edges. A little work on skis at this age will pay BIG dividends later.


    Grade school age (6-11) kids have a HUGE range of skier ability and size. The main factor in successfully choosing skis (and all ski equipment) at this age is to Stay On Top of their needs. DO NOT buy too early for future needs, and DO NOT WAIT until “next season” if they out-grow (or ski out of) current gear.   As an example- I watched 1 parent buy their daughter skis that were 2-3 years too advanced for her. They made a “great deal” on some excellent skis, and it just seemed like a good decision. The poor girl skied 1 day on the skis, got frustrated and quit racing all together. Shame- she was one of the better skiers in her age group up to that time. Your kid’s coaches are your best source of advice about gear needs. Very few ski stores really understand what racers and high performance kid-skiers need- or have the gear that they need. 


    Middle and High School kids: Again- there is a HUGE range in size and ability, but in addition there are ski regulations that begin to come into play. One of the BEST ways to buy used skis for this age is to buy from families/skiers that you know. Since I mentioned that Slalom skis “age” and lose pop fairly quickly, 1 option is to buy a slight worn ski from a heavier, stronger skier. One of my best friends used to sell me his “worn out” Slalom skis. He was about 35lbs. heavier than I was. By the time he softened them up a bit, they were perfect for me! GS and Speed skis last longer, but ski regulations must be considered too. Skiers should be progressing up in size so that they will be ready for FIS skis when they get to that age.


    (this is a repairable bend)


    Re-use, Repair or Scrap: If you have ever been in my shop or hung out with me in a wax room, you know I will try to fix almost anything- for fun/challenge if for no other reason. But having done all those repairs, I can tell you sometimes it makes more sense to just throw the skis away- or down-cycle/recycle them if you are more creative.


    (this bend is not repairable- the ski is splitting)


     Bent skis CAN be bent back- most of the time. The skis will not be as strong as they once were, but they will keep going. Occasionally, the skis are actually better after suffering a big crash and being re-straightened. This mostly happens with Speed skis, which sometime glide better after such abuse. The process of straighten a bent ski isn’t too hard, I have taught several people how to do it but I will not explain it in print. Re-Use Bent skis whenever possible.


    (repairable de-lamination)


    De-laminated skis CAN be successfully re-glued back together- more often than not- but this should only be done to skis out of warranty and that won’t be resold. If I do major repairs on a ski, I generally give them away when we are done using them. I consider them to have ZERO resale value.  The main challenge is opening the ski up enough to get glue back into the ski. Then all you have to do is clamp the ski together and wait for the glue to dry.


    (this is a ski that has been badly over-heated. the base is pulling away from the core)


    Base repairs can range from simple scratches to whole sections of the base being torn away. How much you choose to do will depend on your skill and determination. The resale value of the ski after a major repair is very little, but they can often be made to ski pretty well. I repair most damage because we wear out enough skis. I try to fix whatever I can to save money.


    (this ski will require extensive base patching. it was brand new...)


    Scrap? IF the ski has suffered traumatic damage (broken core or laminate, torn edge, a bend beyond about 30 degrees), it is time to throw it away. I have made such skis into Trophies or other Non-skiing use, but such major troubles are beyond reasonable repair. The only exception is keeping ONE ski if only 1 of a pair is damaged. Pairing together odd skis which would you normally not think of as a pair CAN be done. It is worth experimenting, if you are so inclined.


    In case you are wondering, most of these skis were destroyed in my shop. Such is the fun of being Gadget!

  • 19 Apr 2014 5:16 PM | Deleted user
    You may well have a couple races left (as we do), but for sure you are starting to put some gear away. I will give an overview first, then the details with some photos included.

    Some people try to sell some really NASTY gear- don't be that person! Here is a list to make sure your gear is ready for next year whether you keep it or sell it.

    Keeping OR selling it:
    Clean and dry
    Tune and wax
    Wax the edges
    Turn Down bindings
    Repair and/or scrap

    Clean and dry- you should really do this everyday, but it is hard sometimes I know.

    Dry gloves and clothes before packing to prevent mold and mildew.


    This is our drying rack. It is a little too full.


    Separate Liners from boots and allow to dry for several days or so... nice and slowly.


    Use Lysol to freshen up stinky liners. Your kids' roommate at camp will be glad you did!




    These are NOT skis you want to buy!


    Note the rust. NOT put away DRY.


    So- this ski should scare you. They are in my "waiting for time" pile of things to do. I will have to replace whole sections of base... bad news.

    HERE is what you want. These skis are trainers ready for the next training day (believe it or not):

    Wouldn't you rather find that when looking for a ski to buy? Or a ski that you (or your kids) were about to use?

    Use Wax to preserve the edge. Wax DELAYS rust by keeping water and air away from the edge, but it will not prevent rust completely.



    Rub the wax onto the edge:


    Then buff the wax INTO the edge with a polishing cloth. Medium Hardness wax works best.


    Turn the DIN (spring tightness) to almost the lowest setting. This prevents the spring from weakening during the off-season.


    Once you have your skis clean, dry, tuned and waxed, mark what you did on Masking tape and put them away in your rack. Ready to go!  Sometimes it is a good idea to leave a thick coat of Storage wax on the skis. I do this if I am sure they won't be used for a month or more.Use your warmest, softest wax for that.



    See you at the banquet!

  • 04 Feb 2014 9:35 PM | Deleted user
    OK, let's say that up until now, your Uncle Ned has done all your ski tuning- then he hands the job off to you- but without the tools. What do you need- if you have nothing?
    I have used online links. I try to buy what I can in town, but not everything is available.

    Here is a list
    Tuning Bench
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-t75w-tuning-waxing-table/

    Tool Box:
    http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Tool-Storage-Portable-Tool-Boxes/N-5yc1vZc22a?browsestoreoption=1

    Vise
    http://www.tognar.com/toko-world-cup-ski-vise/

    Light
    Magnifier lights are my favorite

    Side Edge Guide

    http://www.tognar.com/beast-pro-side-angle-guides-angle-plates/

    Base Edge Guide

    http://racewax.com/p-145-05-07-10-degree-base-bevel-file-guide-sks-set-all-3-angles.aspx

    Files
    http://www.tognar.com/viiala-chrome-mill-files-6-8-10-inch/
    A 10 and 8 inch are a great place to start

    File Brush
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-brass-file-cleaning-brush-t0177b/

    Stones
    http://racewax.com/p-304-diaface-moonflex-diamond-stone-100-mm-yellow-400-grit.aspx
    http://racewax.com/p-295-diaface-moonflex-diamond-stone-70-mm-yellow-400-grit.aspx

    Lube

    http://www.tognar.com/edge-polishing-solution-2-oz/

    Iron
    http://www.tognar.com/toko-t8-wax-iron-115v/

    Ray's Way Wax Wizard
    http://www.tognar.com/wax-wizard-rub-in-ski-wax-no-iron-repl-covers/

    Plastic Scraper
    http://www.tognar.com/tognar-ski-wax-scraper-6/

    Brushes
    http://www.tognar.com/tognar-rectangular-wax-brushes/
    You should at least 1 Brass Brush, 1 Stiff Nylon, and 1 soft Horsehair (for overlays).

    P-Tex
    http://www.tognar.com/p-tex-drip-repair-candles/

    Steel Scraper

    http://www.tognar.com/swix-steel-scraper-t0080/

    True Bar
    http://racewax.com/p-163-sks-base-planer-true-bar-for-skis.aspx
    this is a dual purpose tool. It can replace the scraper above.

    Waxes
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-wax-ch8-hydrocarbon/
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-wax-ch10-hydrocarbon/
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-wax-ch7-hydrocarbon/


    More Waxes
    http://www.tognar.com/swix-lf12-low-fluoro-wax/
    http://racewax.com/p-352-racewax-x2-x5-molybdenum-hybrid-fluoro-racing-ski-wax-four-40-g-bars.aspx
    Overlays
    http://racewax.com/p-146-racewax-fluoro-microfiber-ski-wax-7-gram-shaker.aspx
  • 02 Feb 2014 7:44 PM | Deleted user
    So this blog post started with some Race Video of 1 of our Junior racers. I saw a funny "hitch" happen in their skiing when the heel was weighted. I have had the same thing happen to me- when the tail of the ski is railed- so I knew that I must check the flatness of the skis in question. I checked the skis today and found them to be quite railed (also known as "edge-high," or "concave base") at the tail- and the flatness of the bases was inconsistent over the entire length of the ski.

    So what does this Inconsistent Flatness do to the tune? It pretty much ruins it. A ski cannot be properly beveled until it is flat- because the bevel tools rest on the base.

    What does it feel like? A concave ski is EXTREMELY unforgiving of fore-aft balance and edge angle mistakes, and it can even CAUSE TECHNIQUE ERRORS because the ski will not behave properly.

    So how do you diagnose and correct flatness problems? Everything I did on this pair of skis is explained on other blog posts, but I will try to condense the process here. Look for pictures after the text.
    1.) Determine flatness with a True Bar. I used a feeler gauge as an auxiliary tool in this case. I like using a feeler gauge along with a True Bar because it is a more objective way to measure how flat a base is- and how much work is required. I use a .001" feeler for this work. By experimentation, I have learned that I can feel as little as .0015" variation, so I try to get our skis (and the skis I work on) within .0005". That way, I KNOW they are great!
    2.) "Zone" the ski. This means marking the ski into "Work Zones." When I find only part of a ski needs work, I mark that "zone" with wax. Then I work on the marked areas of the ski until the entire ski is uniform.
    3.) Flatten the base/edge by removing material. I have found a Base Flattening File, Ray's Way Flattener, and Ski Visions Base Planer are an extremely effective combination of tools to do this work quickly.
    4.) Repair Structure with a hand stone and/or sandpaper.
    5.) Blend new structure into old with brushing/polishing.
    6.) Blacken the edge.I have covered this topic previously, but I will show pictures again. It is VERY difficult to see how an edge is changing when you are working on it. Blackening the edge with a Sharpie is a big help. 
    6.) Bevel the base edge.
    7.) Rip the side wall.
    8.) Bevel the side edge.
    9.) Tune/wax as usual.
    10.) In my shop, a ski this good gets a sticker.



    Bar and feeler gauge.


    Zoned ski.


    Flattening file.


    Ray's Way flattener.


    Planer.


    Hand Stone and tool.


    Edge is nice and black before filing.


    File guide and file.



    The marque of Blind Speed.


  • 26 Jan 2014 6:43 PM | Deleted user
    Alright- I am using my Base Welder WAY more this year than I have in the last decade. I am happy I still have it, but I SURE WISH I did not have to use it so much!

    So what can do to get through tough years like this one?
    1.) Keep a stock of older, useable skis.
    I am well known as a strong advocate of keeping racers on the RIGHT Gear- not just the cheapest available skis and boots. Athletic Careers are short, I think you should make the best of the years you have. BUT- when years get rough (like this year), it is important to downshift expectations a little bit on training days so that the racers will have SOMETHING decent for those precious race starts. Tired race gear has very little resale value. Keep a good stock around and use the older skis to help keep the new skis nice.

    2.) Dodge, Duck, Dive and - Dodge (the 4 rules of Dodge Ball) all rocks.
    This MAY mean that you avoid some training days (or nights) altogether. Or, it may mean you hike and/or download to avoid the rocks and dirt patches. Just be as smart as you can about it. Besides- crashing on rocks hurts a lot more than falling on snow. I do not recommend you try it for yourself.

    3.) Maintain Daily
    Daily maintenance is even MORE critical on low-snow year. You will be shocked by the amount of damage that can happen in just 1 run, much less 1 day.

    4.) Order new skis early.
    Ski Manufacturers are building less race skis these days. Make sure you test and decide on brand, models, and sizes by June (the beginning of the new Race Season to me) and order by July. You will have all the skis you need by August or September if you do, and you will have much less stress. All your ski prep can be done WELL before the snow flies.

    See you on the Sunny, Dry NW slopes!
  • 09 Jan 2014 6:21 PM | Deleted user
    So- you have those Race Skis RAZOR sharp now to deal with the ice, right? So now what do you do: ski on them, dull them, re-bevel or what?! My suggestion is a little bit of all three.

    BIG Quiver guys:
    You already have Soft and Hard Slalom and GS skis right? Well, if you do, they should be in varying states of tune: High side bevel angles and SHARP for ice, lower side bevel angles smooth (but not too sharp) edges for softer conditions. Why? Because Over Sharp edges are SLOWER and MORE DIFFICULT to ski on in soft conditions. It is almost always true that bases are faster than edges. Going straight is faster than turning. And any un-needed sharpness will tend to slow the ski down because the ski will hook up more than is ideal for speed. Also, a bit more base bevel tends to let a ski "float" a little bit more on soft snow and not hook up so fast- which makes the ski more forgiving and faster.

    Racer/Trainer guys:
    Time to break in the racers a little bit. The kids need to know how to ski them, and you can make any fine adjustments to the tune and/or setup once you've used them a little. Whatever ski you use, gummi stone the edges enough that the sharpness burr is about half gone. Whenever possible at this time of the year, make your final tuning and waxing decisions AS LATE AS POSSIBLE. That way, you can adjust as conditions change. If your skis are sharp from last weekend, keep them sharp in the morning, let the kids try them, then reduce sharpness and smooth/repair the edges at lunch. In this fashion, the racers will get to try the skis in a variety of tunes.

    1 Ski Per Discipline Guys
    :
    You should smooth the edge, but remove the minimum material possible. The skis need to be preserved so that you can sharpen again later. Several times.

    Waxing:
    New snow is more abrasive than old snow, so you should wax slightly colder than he thermometer would otherwise indicate.

    If you want more ideas, drop me a note!

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